The Abandoned Fortress of Pangna
Venturing off the beaten path in the Himalayas, we set our sights on the secluded gem called Pangna. Nestled in the heart of Karsog Valley, this hidden paradise offers a unique perspective on life, with its rugged mountain vistas and idyllic landscapes. Just a stone's throw from Shimla, it's an ideal destination if you're traveling towards Rampur, Kinnaur, Lahaul, or Spiti.
Pangna is situated at an altitude of 2065 meters, home to around 1200 residents living in roughly 250 houses. Surrounded by mountains, apple orchards, and lush farmlands, the village provides a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The road leading to Pangna also serves as an alternate route to Shimla, often chosen by travelers seeking a more scenic journey.
With modernization gradually creeping in, Pangna still retains its rustic charm. Though new structures have begun to rise, remnants of the old architecture still stand proudly, reminders of its historic past. The village traces its roots back to Raja Bir-Sen of 765 AD and is believed to have been named after the Pandavas.
Pangna Fort, now known as the Mahamaya Devi Mandir, sits atop a solid stone base that stands around 50/60 feet high. Offering a commanding view of the entire Pangna valley, the temple serves as a testament to the village's rich history and architectural prowess.
Legend has it that the six-storey structure was originally built as a military tower, boasting tall vertical walls devoid of protrusions for protection in case of enemy attacks. The temple was designed with a high plinth and winding, staggered flights of stairs that resist intrusion and force, making it a formidable fortress. It even had three "kunds" or "bavdis" for water storage, a feature that was once used by the royal ladies for maintaining a constant water temperature.
Pangna village features simple yet exquisite homes that showcase the unique vernacular style of architecture. Each house is unique, built closely together and adorned with intricate wood carvings. This architectural marvel reflects the indigenous knowledge traditionally passed down through generations of master masons.
As you stroll through the village, you'll encounter Gau-mukhs – water spouts carved into local stone that serve as part of the water channels. According to local legends, there are seven such Gau-mukhs in the village fields, though only two remain visible today.
Sadly, many of these architectural wonders have fallen into disrepair due to neglect and a lack of restoration efforts. The Pangna Fort, in particular, is in dire need of conservation to preserve its rich history and maintain its structural integrity.
Pangna Village offers a glimpse into the living heritage of architecture in Southeast Himachal Pradesh, an intrinsic part of the tangible and intangible assets of these remote highlands. A visit to Pangna offers travelers a chance to immerse themselves in the heart of local culture, customs, and religious beliefs, making it a must-visit destination for anyone seeking a unique Himalayan experience.
References:1. Shabbir Khambaty & Swapnil S. Bhole. Traditional Earth Building Techniques in Pangna Village, Himachal Pradesh. Journal of Architectural Research and Education. 2015.2. A.K.Sharma. The Himachal Historical Research Archive. Himachal Pradesh Cultural Council. 2018.
Remember, our trip to Pangna wasn't just about enjoying breathtaking vistas - it was about stepping into the past, uncovering forgotten stories, and marveling at the architectural genius of our ancestors. It was about embracing the rough roads and unwinding landscapes as an invitation to slow down and appreciate the simple joys of life.
Getting to Pangna:
- Location: Pangna is nestled in the Karsog Valley of Mandi district, Himachal Pradesh.
- By Air: The nearest airport is located around 115 km away in Jubbarhatti, Shimla.
- By Train: The nearest railway station is in Shimla, approximately 102 km away.
- By Road: Mandi (65 km) and Shimla (102 km) are the nearest road connections to Pangna.
- Accommodation: Travelers can stay at the HPTDC Hotel in Chindi or the Pangna PWD Rest house. Several other accommodation options can be found in Karsog town.
- Climate: Summers can be hot, while winters are quite cold.
Shabbir Khambaty and Swapnil S. Bhole are architects based in Mumbai, with a passion for research and hands-on experience in Himachal Pradesh since 2003. They have documented more than 27 villages in the region, including temples, forts, palaces, and residences. Besides working on various architectural projects, they contribute knowledge and ideas to architectural institutes and deliver guest lectures, promoting sustainable practices at the grassroots level.
Embarking on an adventure-travel journey, we explored Pangna, a secluded village nestled in Karsog Valley, rich in cultural heritage and architectural wonders. Embracing the local lifestyle amidst rugged mountain vistas and idyllic landscapes, our trip was a blend of cultural-travel and travel for scenic beauty. The road to Pangna, offering a scenic route to Shimla, presented an opportunity to experience the simple joys of life, away from the hustle and bustle of modernization.
