The Enigmatic Darien Province, Panama: An Adventurer's Odyssey
Photos Reveal the Treacherous Terrain and Lawlessness of the Darien Gap Jungle
The alluring, uncharted territory of the Darien Gap remains shrouded in mystery, lying in wait on the border of Panama and Colombia. This remote, road-less wilderness has gained notoriety as a smuggling route between the nations, rarely graced by the presence of outsiders. When recounting my most memorable experiences after a decade of globe-trotting, the Darien Gap stands among my greatest adventures - camping on an erupting volcano, traversing Afghanistan, and venturing through this elusive jungle.
The Darien Gap conveys an almost mystical aura, a land brimming with extraordinary flora and fauna, indigenous tribes, and dangerous paramilitary groups. It resides deep in the borderlands of Panama and Colombia.
Largely untouched by contemporary civilization, the Darien is one of world's least trodden lands.
With boots on the ground and a machete in hand, I daresay in autumn of 2011 I embarked on a five-day excursion into the Darien Gap with a fellow adventurer. Our mission was to discern the truth behind the legends swirling around this fabled wilderness.
I trust the images I captured serve as a captivating glimpse into this unique corner of Latin America.
Beyond the Road's End
A rudimentary footbridge near the town of Yaviza marks the only break in the 29,000-mile (48,000 km) Pan-American Highway, which spans from Alaska to Argentina. This isolated 100-mile section of impassable jungle between Central and South America is known as the Darien Gap.
Despite an occasional expedition, vehicles rarely succeed in crossing this land - it demands a well-financed team to accomplish. For those determined to journey by land, they must ship their vehicles across the ocean from Panama City to the town of Turbo, Colombia via cargo ship.
Jungle Travel by River
Since most of the Darien rainforest remains roadless, long piragua canoes become the primary mode of transportation for most villagers. Those with extra funds can purchase outboard motors for them, but many rely on hand-made paddles. Navigating the rivers can be demanding due to strong currents and formidable landscapes.
The Homes of the Emberá People
The Emberá people construct their dwellings high atop stilts to protect them from animals and flooding. During our expedition, we were fortunate to pass through many such settlements.
A log ladder serves as both access to the home and a distinctive "do not disturb" indicator. I was intrigued by this quaint custom!
Panama's Elite Border Police
Although they resemble military soldiers, these individuals belong to Panama's elite border police known as Senafront. The Darien Gap serves as a conduit for drug smugglers and human traffickers.
With the surge of criminal activity, accessing the majority of the Darien without the explicit permission of Senafront is virtually impossible. To investigate this enigmatic landscape, I had to seek permission from Senafront in Panama City and adhere to their guidelines limiting how far I could venture into the jungle.
As with any region grappling with crime, the situation is unstable and ever-changing, constraining access and safety for travelers.
Deadly Darien Poison Frogs
The Darien is home to a diverse array of venomous creatures, among them deadly poison frogs. While I couldn't confirm the species, this particular amphibian may be the Harlequin Toad (Atelopus varius). You may recall that these frogs were believed to be extinct in Panama!
The jungle becomes particularly lively at night as various creatures emerge, creating a cacophony of wildlife that belies the notion of a peaceful nocturnal slumber in the jungle.
Darien National Park: A UNESCO World Heritage Site
The Darien National Park and Biosphere Reserve earned UNESCO World Heritage status in 1981. Upon securing proper permissions, visitors can explore the impressive park and camp within its wild reaches.
While it draws fewer tourists now, a machete remains useful for clearing the many overgrown trails.
Alarming Black Scorpions
The dangerous creatures lurking in the Darien jungle don't stop at tiny venomous frogs. This ominous-looking scorpion served as a chilling reminder that the jungle holds many threats.
Alongside scorpions, the area is also home to painful fire ants, lethal fer-de-lance snakes, jaguars, bot flies that lay eggs under your skin, wild boars, and other potentially harmful denizens.
Chunga Palm: Beware the Thorny Trees
Be warned of the Chunga Palm (also known as the Black Palm), which is not recommended for hugging. Their sharp, bacteria-laden spines can lead to horrific infections should they pierce your skin. Navigating the rainforest with its myriad of dangerous flora requires caution and astuteness.
Earning a Living in the Jungle
Many indigenous people thrive in the Darien by cultivating plantain bananas, which they sell in Panama City. This lucrative industry has emerged following a ban on hunting within the National Park, forcing the tribes to seek alternative means of sustenance.
The Region's Indigenous Tribes
While trekking along the rivers, we encountered friendly children from the Wounaan tribe. They greeted us at a security checkpoint as we passed through the village of Vista Alegre, showcasing their handcrafted wares and unforgettable smiles.
Notorious Colombian Guerrillas in the Darien
During our expedition, we crossed paths with a wanted poster depicting the infamous Colombian guerrilla leader known as "The Calf." Widely hunted for drug trafficking, arms smuggling, kidnappings, and a bombing that claimed 80 innocent lives, Gilberto Torres Muntéton's presence in the Darien served as a striking reminder of the ongoing conflict.
Security Checkpoints
Private Wilson serves as a guardsman at a Senafront checkpoint on the road into the Darien. The Panamanian authorities continuously work to regain control of the jungle, eradicating smugglers, bandits, and paramilitary groups. Thus, numerous uniformed guards and armed personnel secure the region.
Riverside Fishing on the Turia River
On a sunny afternoon, our Kuna guide, Isaac, led us to the Turia River for a spot of fishing. As we cast our lines, we caught a variety of fish, some of which we cooked up and shared for dinner. The rivers here teem with fish, ready to be reeled in at a moment's notice.
Kuna Indian Family
During our journey, we had the pleasure of meeting Mariana, a Kuna woman, and her family. They welcomed us warmly, exhibiting their colorful Molas (intricate tribal textiles). The Kuna tribe is just one of the many indigenous communities that call the Darien region home.
Flooding in Darien Province
Flooding is a pervasive issue in the Darien during the rainy season, as I bore witness to firsthand as I attempted to depart the area. A river had burst its banks and submerged the road, forcing everyone to fork over money for boat rides to the next dry section of land approximately 300 yards away.
Jungle Farming and Ranching
Although indigenous people populate the Darien, Panamanians and Colombians have also migrated to the area to establish plantain banana farms, cattle ranches, and logging operations. During our trip, we encountered a local farmer, who hitched a ride with us in the back of a truck, accompanied by his horse.
Consumption of the Jungle
The ceaseless expansion of vegetation and the overwhelming humidity of the Amazonian rainforest lead to rapid decay of materials left unattended, such as this dilapidated building. If unchecked, the encroaching jungle can devour any structure within its path.
Swollen Turia River
The powerful Turia River, an essential artery of transportation in the Darien Gap, carries a dark, swollen hue from the October rainfall. We carefully navigated the river in our canoes, making our way to the village of Boca de Cupe.
Canoe Ride in the Rain
Having spent a rain-soaked afternoon fishing, we returned to the village aboard a piragua canoe, my guide's son guiding the way.
The laid-back pace of life, varied encounters, and the unique absence of tourism make Panama's Darien Gap an adventure that will be forever etched in my memory. ★
EXPLORE MORE TRAVEL TIPS
Take a voyage into the mysterious Darien Gap, one of the most notorious regions on earth! Here are some fascinating stories you might enjoy reading next:
- Journeying through the Darien Gap
- Encounters with Indigenous Communities
- Riverside Fishing in the Turia River
distinctive "do not disturb" indicator. I was intrigued by this quaint custom!
Most of the Darien is unwieldy, with few roads traversing the dense jungle, jagged mountains, and swamp-like terrains. There are no conventional vehicles that dare challenge this inhospitable terrain, making travel a test of endurance and patience.
However, with machetes in hand, my comrade and I ventured into the heart of the Darien Gap in autumn of 2011, eager to uncover the truth behind the myths.
The region is home to diverse Indigenous tribes, each with their own lived traditions and cultures. The Emberá, Kuna, and Wounaan peoples inhabit the jungle, and we had ample opportunities to interact with these communities, learn about their customs, and admire their craftsmanship, particularly in the realm of textiles.
Wildlife was abundant, with the rainforest concealing exotic species that were both wondrous and disconcerting. Featuring a plethora of rare insects, birds, and animals, the biodiversity of the Darien is unparalleled. However, with many of the creatures possessing venomous or dangerous characteristics, venturing into the jungle was an exercise in maintaining constant vigilance.
The ongoing conflicts in the region, such as drug smuggling, human trafficking, and troubling political tensions, added layers of complexity to our journey. The government forces and paramilitary groups present in the jungle created an atmosphere of unease and tension.
Television and other modern forms of entertainment were out of reach, forcing us to rely on nature's symphony to lull us to sleep during the night. The canopy above us came alive with the cacophony of unseen creatures, from the high-pitched hum of insects to the distant growl of unknown animals. Our campsite served as a constant reminder of the wild, untamed jungle surrounding us.
Even the simplest of tasks, such as collecting water or going to the bathroom, required a heightened level of caution. The dense undergrowth and lack of infrastructure made even the most basic errands an adventure. To wash our hands, we'd submerge ourselves in the river, mindful of the lurking threat of crocodiles and other aquatic predators.
Our journey was marked by numerous challenges, but it also provided moments of joy, discovery, and camaraderie. We forged new bonds, faced our fears, and gained an unparalleled understanding of the majesty and brutality of the Darien Gap.
Privacy and security experts may take note that accessing the Darien Gap requires adhering to strict rules and obtaining permission from local authorities. Traveling in such a remote and volatile region could potentially lead to compromising personal information or data if not properly safeguarded.
Over the years, the Darien Gap has become more accessible to intrepid travelers, with guided tours and learning opportunities offered by organizations like the Smithsonian. However, the region remains a formidable challenge for all who dare to venture within its tangled embrace, promising an experience that will be forever etched in their memories.
The Darien Gap, an untouched landlocked section of the Darien rainforest, offers a captivating adventure-travel experience that blends the allure of exotic flora and fauna with the thrill of exploration. Despite the remoteness and challenges, it is possible to embark on a journey into the jungle with a machete in hand, providing a unique travel lifestyle that stands out among other adventures.
With its uncharted territories alive with mysterious tribes, dangerous creatures, and unspoiled landscapes, the Darien Gap offers travelers an immersive glimpse into Latin America's enigmatic borders. Within this landscape lies a chance to witness the distinctive Emberá dwellings, farm with indigenous people, and marvel at the diverse wildlife, all while navigating the muddy rivers and dense jungle.
